Nilson Tales Guimarães
A brow expert shared a face mapping method that can help anyone find their ideal eyebrow shape. The technique uses three points on the face to determine where the brow should start, where the arch should peak, and where it should end.
Amanda Robinson, owner of Iris+West Lash Co in Los Angeles, works with clients including Mandy Moore and Molly Baz. She has spent more than a decade in the beauty industry. Her advice focuses on working with natural brows rather than against them.
The three-point method starts by placing a pencil vertically from the corner of the nose upward. That point marks where the brow should begin. Next, angle the pencil diagonally from the dimple of the nose to the outside of the iris. That shows where the arch should peak. Finally, tilt the pencil from the side of the nostril to the outer corner of the eye. That indicates where the brow should end.
“Those three points give you your ideal start, arch, and end,” Robinson said. She added that people should think of the top and bottom lines of the brow as parallel railroad tracks.
Working with natural brows
Robinson said the biggest mistake people make is fighting their natural brow shape. “Some people naturally have more arch, while others have a straighter or more rounded brow,” she said. “While we can definitely refine the shape, I find people feel their best when we aren’t fighting what’s naturally there too much.”
On the question of thick versus thin brows, Robinson said shape and arch matter more than thickness. “As a general rule, bolder brows tend to suit stronger, more prominent features, while thinner brows complement more delicate ones,” she said. “Fuller brows also tend to give a more youthful look.” She added that the best brow is the one that makes the wearer feel confident.
Common mistakes
Robinson identified several common brow mistakes. The most frequent error is cutting brows too flat and straight across the top. Her fix is to trim one hair at a time, brush them in the desired direction, and go slowly. “You can always take more off, but you can’t put hair back,” she said.
Other mistakes include using harsh products on brows, choosing the wrong shade, expecting perfect symmetry, and skipping brow care. Robinson noted that brows do not need to match hair color exactly and that brows are “sisters, not twins.”
Supporting brow growth
For people trying to regrow brows after over-tweezing or years of thin brows, Robinson recommends peptide-based serums. “Peptides condition and strengthen the hair follicle and promote healthy growth,” she said. She advised avoiding prostaglandin analogs without first checking with a dermatologist.
Robinson also shared product recommendations for brows. For definition and filling in sparse areas, she suggested using a pencil with light, hair-like strokes. For taming full brows or creating a brushed-up look, a gel works well. For regrowth, a serum that works on the follicle level can help over time.
The expert emphasized that consistency is key with serums. These products are not instant solutions but can support longer, fuller brows with regular use. She also warned against over-tweezing and advised letting brows grow out before shaping them again.
